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If you can't make it to Rech by April's end, worry not. There's still chance to redeem yourself and enlighten your palate at Rech, where the tour continues. From June to July, the restaurant will feature a Riviera menu; one from Brittany for August and September; and for October and November, the lesser-known Aquitaine, whose capital is Bordeaux, with freshly harvested seasonal produce.

Some things are just instinctively right – and Rech is one of them. If you love seafood, you'll adore this piscatorial emporium. It's the difference that keeps the diversity alive and keeps those taste buds tingling.

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