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The decor of Caprice in Hong Kong's Four Seasons Hotel, International Finance Center, Central is anything but cheesy - but its offerings are exactly that.

Anytime I imagine nibbling cheese and swilling wine, I'm nabbing bites from Caprice's cheese trolley in my mind. Caprice is to me what the bell's ding was to Pavlov's dog.

And while reservation requirements make an impulsive - I guess you could say caprice - decision to pop into the Michelin-starred dining room unthinkable, the cheeses are now proffered by the new Caprice Bar.

The pates molles (soft cheese platter) goes well with a Brillat-Savarin from North Burgandy.

This creamy cheese with mushroom notes, made with raw cow's milk, is a fresh variety that manager Jeremy Evrard describes as "gentle - like cheese ice cream".

This was billed as "nothing outstanding", but the creamy rich texture with the light mushroom notes was a definitive hit. I enjoyed it paired with champagne. The bubbles help exorcise the fattiness from the palate.

Evrard explains he has worked with many of the affineurs for more than 15 years to ensure a stable supply of farm-fresh cheeses. He mentioned a Belgian couple in France who raise their own goats and produce their own cheeses on their farm.

The couple pays careful attention to each of their goats to see what they like to eat and feed them their favorites to produce the best milk. Better milk means better cheese.

Evrard shares many such anecdotes with diners, adding a personal touch to the experience.

Unpasteurized artisan cheeses on the bar's seasonal comptoir ("counter") menu include: chevres (goats' milk cheese) (HK$250, $32), aged comte 4 years (HK$280) or a "bit of everything" for HK$250. There are also soft cheeses (HK$280).

The comte is a must-try. The farm only produces 180 wheels a year. That's partly because 600 liters of milk are needed to produce each one.

The cheeses are flown in fresh from France weekly, with some spending some time in Caprice's cheese maturing room.

Wine pairings for the cheeses are also available - three glasses cost HK$280 and four are HK$370.

The menu, designed by Caprice chef Vincent Thierry, offers a select number of dishes. All dishes are served on rustic wooden boards and slate plates.

Try the charcuteries, which included Iberico ham and saucisson on the evening we were there, rich smoked salmon heart served with sour cream and mache salad or the slightly nutty risotto of fregola sarda with morel mushrooms.

This was my first opportunity to try fregola sarda, which was described as similar to couscous. The slightly nutty flavor comes from toasting the dried pasta.

The risotto was cooked al dente and infused with the earthy morel flavor. The portion wasn't large but it was rich enough to share. It's officially my new favorite dish.

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(China Daily 07/28/2013 page14)